Hello

I am about to refresh my lower control arms and associated hardware. Am interested in some used lollipop brackets to press my new bushings into before hand.

Anybody have any spare they want to get rid of?

Thanks,

Eric S.

So lots of interest but no takers so eBay is next
Thanks again to all inquires.

I thought the E30 318is had "special" suspension, but looking on RealOEM it shows the springs and dampers were common to other models too:

Rear shocks
Springs
Front struts

But then M TECHNIC parts are mentioned but not specifically listed:
M TECHNIC

So what does this mean? Was the M Technic suspension an option on the 318is, with standard setup being the stock option?

I need to sell my car, not because it isn't running well, but because I need a larger vehicle with AWD and just can't justify keeping two cars.

I see on this forum that people are selling the same make/model as my car (white exterior, black interior) for up to $6,000. I'm hoping to get a sense of how much I could ask for it - I certainly know that it is not worth $6,000!!

Briefly - I can post photos later:

• ~260,000 miles
• I'm the third owner; well-maintained
• California car
• Exterior paint is starting to have small rust spots
• Interior is pretty good, not perfect
• Many new parts (including catalytic converter) - have most repair records
• Odometer is broken(about 2 tanks of gas ago)
• Air conditioner is broken
• Small water leaks here and there

Thanks!

i have a small case diff cover from my original 318is rear end, bushing is still good. asking $50 obo.

also have a small diff housing that i blew the lsd on but the housing is fine. asking $50 obo.

ive posted in a different section to no avail but im desperate for help so i'll try here, i have a 91 318i w/m42
the car overheated and warped the head, that issue was resolved with a milled head, new head gasket (and all other gaskets) and i also attacked the cooling system and replaced everything i could while deleting what i could
problem: the car is still overheating, it takes 15 minutes or so when idling but when driving happens in maybe half that time
i know my fan clutch is good but my aux fan never comes on(not sure if these would even be the culprit)
i have bled the system correctly, multiple times with no luck

if anyone has any tips/tricks/advice it would be appreciated
im new to these cars but im not an idiot so please do not reply as if i am

With my '94 car... I suspect that the mixture is a bit off.

idle isn't perfect constant... and on the overrun i hear a slight rumble in the exhaust (which should be a good sign, engines need to be rich on overrun)

The reason i suspect it's not perfect, a while a go did some hard driving
(well I was, but my dad behind me not...in his V70 R AWD)
and my dad told me that there was absolutely no smoke...zero... but under accel. he could smell it.

Is the ECU a self learning unit, or do i need to plug in a laptop and change the mapping myself?
or more simply, does the airflow sensor have a possibilty to richen her up a bit (by adjusting the flap angle a bit)

hi guys.

my e30 318is m42 engine is using alot of oil . i do alot of driving highway mostly on a weekly basis travelling to and from work / start and stop in traffic :mad:

i noticed that is uses alot of oil since from the last 2 services ive done .. im finding myslef topping up at least once each fornight. the motor has 310,000km (190000miles) on the motor doesnt blow any blue smoke. and the motor sound and runs strong.

i use 15w-60 full syn on the motor.

any ideas?

Let me know how much shipping to 97362

i have now broken FIVE keys. they have all broken in the same spot. its always happened when using it in the door (passenger door cause of course my drivers door locks dont work) and if i just happen to not put it in just right, it snaps like butter. ive used a couple different lock smiths, and theyve all done the same thing. does anyone else have this problem? its only extremely annoying...


is there anywhere i can get a decent key that wont break? i see there is blanks on eBay but $30 seems expensive, and are they actually right?

i just checked again, I see theres a few for around 10 bucks, that seems more reasonable. are they the correct blanks tho? anyone have experience?


i was just looking for a bit of input. thanks.

hey guys was doing the hose delete and cant remember where the lower nipple on the throttle body connects to. as well as a tiny tube located on the side of the manifold? PLEASE HELP...PICS WILL HELP ME THE BEST.THANKS

Its a 09/94 (95) 318i 5 speed. One day it just wont make any noise when the key is turned, but it will pop just fine. I havent had this car that long but Im sure I dont have any of the EWS crap, and itll pop anyways. I figured it was the starter so I replaced it, same thing, itll pop and run fine. I keep reading of a starter relay but cant find it, my cables seem to be fine and all have good contact. This is a FL car so everything is pretty clean wire wise as far as rust and corrosion is concerned. I hear a non-fully charged battery can be the culprit, but my lights are super bright and I dont have a battery light when driving. It wont even jump start. Any idea of where I should start looking? This is super annoying.

EDIT: Now that Ive looked into it I have realized I have EWS I. Right before this happened I was towed home with my car running so I could steer and brake (snapped a rear cv shaft), after I shut it off it wouldnt start back up. I dont know if it thought something was wrong?

Hi guys, finally got in to this exclusive forum :D New here have a 91, 318is, I assume pretty much everyone here does. Hoping to get some advice for mods and common problems.

Thanks in advance, Igor

Hey there,

I dont post much cause im in the market of buying an e30. I live in canada and alot of the cars for sale have rust.

Now most of the rust is superficial and on doors and fenders, however my question is...can you tell when theres too much rust and its starting to deteriorate the structure of the car. Where would i have to look to know if rigidity is at stake. Im not familiar with where the load bearing beams are in the car. Could someone point out which member should not have rust on them?

Remember im look at buying a car so i cant really tear up the carpet as the owner stands by and watches...

Thanks.

a couple of pics from lithuania